FSU Lenses, Viewfinders and Accessories
Back L-R: Jupiter 12 - 35/2.8, Jupiter 9 - 85/2, Industar 50 - 50/3.5 & KMZ Universal Viewfinder 28mm-135mm
Front L-R: Rostov 35mm VF, Jupiter 8 - 50/2 & Jupiter 3 - 50/1.5
It is easy to get carried away with cameras but one thing we overlook is that a camera is just a light proof box with a shutter to control exposure while the lens takes the picture. While Japan took over the entry level camera market in 1950s USA an FSU camera was the cheap ticket to photography in western Europe which generated much needed revenue for the former USSR. The reason for the success of FSU cameras is the quality of their lenses.
The Jupiter range traces its roots back to 1930s Zeiss Sonnar blueprints that were acquired by the Russians after WWII while the FED/Industar 50/3.5 originated as a copy of the original Leitz Elmar that evolved to the I-61 L/D supplied on the FED 5 made until the 90s. Here is a sample picture taken by an ugly rear lens cap and the Industar 61L/D.
FED 5C, Industar 61L/D
All the standard FSU 50mm lenses from the collapsible FED/Industar 10, 22, 50, rigid 50/3.5, I-26M, I-61, Jupiter 8 and 3 will give similar quality of image on the negative maybe even better if you're a better photographer. The only advantage of the J8 and J3 is greater speed for low light conditions [f2 and f1.5, respectively]. I bought a late model black J8 for my Bessa R and compared to an earlier chrome aluminum J8 that came with my Zorki 4, I noticed an improvement in the quality of the lens mount. The aperture ring tends to become loose on the older models but that can be rectified with CLA. Visit Matt Denton's site for an Industar 26/ 61 CLA or Jay for the collapsible 50/3.5 models.
A typical rangefinder outfit consists of the camera with a standard 50mm augmented by a 35mm wide angle and 90mm short telephoto lens. A dedicated or universal viewfinder comes in handy with FSU cameras since the VF is only a 50mm. Here is a picture shot with a Jupiter 12.
IIIf, Jupiter 12 - 35/2.8
The J12 is a Zeiss Biogon clone with further Russian tweaks that turned it to their own. It is a non-retrofocus design with a big rear element that protrudes in the back which requires careful handling and unfortunately for bargain hunters this lens won't fit the Bessa R or later M bodies.
Bessa R, Jupiter 9- 85/2
Due to the design of RF cameras a 90mm lens [135mm if you have very sharp eyes and steady hands] is the longest focal length I use. The picture above was shot with a J9. It is also a Zeiss Sonnar clone with f2 maximum aperture.
So far I have been lucky to acquire good FSU lenses. Granted I bought them in camera shows during my mid 90s GAS attack and was able to inspect them before laying down cash an option not available at eBay. Russian lenses have been the subject of great controversy due to poor quality control of the lens mounts. But everyone agrees about the quality of glass.
Unless you will exclusively use a 50 mm lens, you will need an accessory viewfinder to use other focal lengths. The KMZ 28-135 universal viewfinder is the single best buy amongst FSU camera accessories. It is a Contax clone with a primitive facility for parallax adjustment but it has great glass, much clearer and brighter than a typical Leitz VIOOH which are often foggy in the used market. The crosshairs bother some people but I find it very useful in keeping the camera level. The Rostov 35mm is also a nice VF if you want a dedicated unit for your 35mm lens but it lacks parallax adjustment which is not too important at this focal length. If you want to learn more about parallax visit Jay.
Lens hoods are de rigeur in photography because they minimize flare [stray reflections of light on the front lens element] by concentrating the amount of light that goes through the aperture. This is particularly stressed by Cosina Voigtlander since most of their lenses are sold with a dedicated lens hood. Scroll down this link and see Jay's illustration of how your picture will significantly improve by using a lens hood. Older lenses tend to be more susceptible to flare due to inferior or lack of coating in the lens elements. Affordable A36 hoods for a Leitz Elmar 50/3.5 or Summaron 35/3.5 are hard to find and expensive. After becoming friendly with an eBay FSU dealer I inquired about hoods for the I-22/50 and got the this "slip-on" FSU A36 it also works on the Leitz Elmar. I was not as impressed with the 42mm "slip-ons" for I-26, 61 or J8 but found out that with a bit of masking tape it fits a Leitz Summitar [center, mounted on FED 2]. I find modern 40.5mm threaded lens hoods [vented metal easily found at eBay] for the J8 and I-26/61 more practical to use. Even my local photo supply store has generic collapsible rubber 40.5mm and 49mm hoods [right mounted on the J9].
As far as I know my big ugly lens rear cap and its older brother the FED 4 were the only FSU cameras that had built-in but uncoupled light meter. Since I don't like to be seen carrying a FED 5C, I usually have a Gossen Pilot 2 in my pocket or just use the "Sunny 16" rule when shooting with early Barnack clones, FED 2 or Zorki 6. As pictured above with an accessory shoe mount attached, I found a neat trick of clearing the top deck on a low accessory shoe FED 2 model by using a flash shoe adapter which can be transferred on a Zorki 6 to clear the shutter speed dial. The flash adapter trick also allows using the 35mm VF on most FED 2s.
Never ready cases
Never ready cases are heavy, ugly and a lot of times stinky however we should remember that we can enjoy these ancient Russian cameras due to the mummifying qualities of these leather cases. Yak string, brown wrapping paper, styrofoam and other padding materials give protection for shipping our new found treasure from Russia or the Ukraine but these cases are even tougher and you should not allow your camera to be shipped without them. I store them just in case at some point I need to ship my cameras.
Russian cameras as an investment? Maybe not in my lifetime, except for pre WWII or models made in small quantities, I don't think it is wise to put your retirement fund into these cameras. Even Leica prices fluctuate in the market. And if you will collect cameras please don't keep them in glass cases, have fun and take pictures!
